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Frank Lloyd Wright's Graycliff Estate, Derby, NY (built 1926-1931), on a rainy November day
Frank Lloyd Wright's Graycliff Estate, Derby, NY (built 1926-1931), on a rainy November day

Frank Lloyd Wright in Buffalo

A Day Trip to Buffalo, New York, to See Architecture

I think I’m finally starting to “get” Frank Lloyd Wright. On Saturday I joined a one-day bus trip from Toronto to New York State to see two Wright-designed properties: Graycliff in Derby and the Martin House Complex in Buffalo, both on the U.S. National Register of Historic Places. The tours I received at both estates were exemplary and memorable, and I’d certainly recommend a visit to either to anyone interested in modern architecture.

Graycliff

Graycliff (exterior photo above), built between 1926 and 1931, is the later of two homes designed for Wright’s client and friend Darwin D. Martin. Now run by a non-profit conservancy, this “country house” is dramatically situated on … a gray cliff, atop Lake Erie.

I was fascinated by a set of stairs to the beach (photo below), now freestanding due to the decay of the land bridge, which made for a strangely poignant and melancholy sight (or maybe it was just November).

Graycliff Estate stairs on Lake Erie

The joy of the site is observing the ongoing restoration (including installation of a fire protection system, re-roofing, stuccoing, flooring, etc.), which allows glimpses of the underlying structure of the buildings. There are plans to recreate the bridge too.

Darwin D. Martin House Complex

As someone who loves guided (walking) tours, being taken through the Martin House Complex was an exceptionally captivating experience. We were encouraged to touch the (outdoor) brick, and to notice particular views (look up at the intricate lay light panels!). Built between 1903 and 1905, this “city house” has already been restored to its condition as of 1907, and it is stunning.

A July 2017 Globe and Mail article by Alex Bozikovic, “Buffalo’s Past Glory Lives on in its Architecture,” provides more detail and photos more beautiful than mine (exterior below).

Martin House exterior

Here’s the ten-minute introductory video shown at the start of the tour, in the adjacent visitor’s centre, for background.

Sculpture of Nike of SamothraceFrom the magnificent view down the 100-foot pergola, to the celebrated geometric art glass windows, the double-sided fireplace, the custom-made book cabinets (swoon) including the Encyclopedia Britannica bookshelf, the topcoat of bronzing powder on interior walls, to the glass conservatory featuring a cast of Nike of Samothrace (!), touring the Martin House is dazzling (and oh, how I’d like to return in sunlight).

I have to wonder, though, about the experience of actually living there, where every space is designed to manipulate your behaviour (e.g. low ceiling – don’t stand and linger here). As Wright also designed (all of?) the home’s furniture, how far were the inhabitants able to customize the space, beyond Wright’s design (to add their own artwork, or a non-Wright reading lamp, for instance)? Something to follow up on.

There’s a PBS video, “Frank Lloyd Wright’s Buffalo,” that I need to track down. And now that I begin to understand his style (harmony with natural surroundings, horizontal lines, open floor plans, low roofs), I’m interested to visit other examples of his work. Next stop Fallingwater.

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